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There are a number of things to do while enjoying Guadalupe Mountains National Park. These include but are not limited to: camping, hiking, backpacking, observing desert wildflowers, wildlife observations, horseback riding, (see Horseback Riding for more info).
| The Canyons | The Desert | Dog Canyon | Frijole Museum | Guadalupe Peak |
| The Highlands | McKittrick Canyon | The Pinery | Wildflowers | Williams Ranch |
The Desert
Surrounding the Guadalupe Mountains are the sparsely populated plains of the Chihuahuan Desert. This vast arid realm extends south for hundreds of miles into Mexico. The Chihuahuan Desert receives between 10 and 20 inches of rain a year; in the summer, temperatures rise to 90° F and above. Although it can look barren at its first glance, the desert is full of life. Many of the Chihuahuan Desert's most common plants and animals are found in the park. Agaves, prickly pear cacti, walking stick cholias, yuccas, and sotol are abundant, and lizards, snakes, coyotes, and mule deer are seen frequently. Adaption to this demanding environment is the key to survival. Like many other reptiles, the collard lizard escapes the midday heat by concentrating most of its daily activities in the cooler morning and evening hours. Snakes and many mammals move about more frequently at night.
The Canyons
The deep, sheer-sided canyons of the Guadalupe Mountains display an impressive diversity of plants and animals. This variety of life is displayed in its greatest splendor in McKittrick Canyon, which has been described as "the most beautiful spot in Texas." Lying as it does between the desert below and the highlands above, McKittrick Canyon, like other canyons, has a mix of life that is part desert, part canyon, woodland, and part forest. Bigtooth maple, Texas walnut, velvet ash, gray oak, and choke cherry trees grow at McKittrick Canyon's unique, spring fed stream and in other shaded canyons of the park where the moisture is plentiful and well as prickly pear cacti, agaves, willows, ferns, Texas madrones, alligator junipers and ponderosa pines. Wildlife includes jackrabbits, coyotes, porcupines, gray foxes, mule deer, mountain lions and elk.
Moderate temperatures and protection from the sun and wind provided by the high cliffs nurture this canyon community. In late October and early November the foliage turns to brilliant reds, yellows, and oranges, creating a scene reminiscent of more northern woods. McKittrick Canyon exudes a lushness that is rare in this part of Texas.
The park's main exhibit area is Headquarters Visitor Center. The Center offers plant, animal, and geology exhibits, a slide program and bookstore. Rangers are on duty to provide information and orientation. Historical exhibits are on display and a video narrated by Wallace Pratt can be found at McKittrick Canyon.
The Highlands
In the mountain highcountry of the Guadalupe thrives a dense forest of ponderosa pine, southwestern white pine, Douglas fir and aspen. This conifer forest is a relict of about 15,000 years ago when the prevailing climate throughout Texas was cooler and moister. As the climate warmed, fragments of this forest survived in the higher elevations of mountains such as the Guadalupes. The forest is especially lush in the Bowl, a 2-mile wide depression atop the Guadalupe Mountains. Throughout this highland wilderness roam elk, mule deer, raccoons, wild turkeys, vultures, mountain lions, black bear, golden eagles and peregrine falcons.
Elk range throughout the highcountry and down into the canyons and lower slopes of the Guadalupes. An estimated 50 to 70 elk inhabit the park. The herd grew from groups of animals brought from Wyoming and South Dakota in the 1920's. The original population, which probably was never very large, was hunted to extinction in the 1900's.
McKittrick Canyon
Not far from where the mountain range ends in the plunging cliffs of El Capitan, a deep canyon has cut into the heart of these mountains. Tucked within the 2,000 foot high limestone walls is a place that some call "the most beautiful spot in Texas." On the map, its name is McKittrick Canyon. Most famous for its spectacular fall foliage, thousands of people come to visit this attraction, and hike between the canyon walls that shelter a perennial stream.
McKittrick Canyon is a confluence of diversity. Trees of the east, north, and west, the grasses of the plains, and the cactus and succulents of the desert join with the animal life of both mountain and desert here in this canyon. McKittrick Canyon is more than a single place, it is a collection of places. You can witness the diversity of life as well as the near magical collection of places here in this one canyon.
Your actions while visiting McKittrick Canyon will influence what future visitors and generations will experience, those from whom we borrow this place. During your visit to the canyon, strive to make your presence and impact indiscernible; consider yourself a guest in the home of creatures as significant as yourself.
As you hike through the desert plants and into the beautiful trees, grasses, and breath taking vistas, it is hard to imagine that this is only a reflection of recent geological time. 250 million years ago, during the Permian Age, a vast inland sea covered the land. Within the waters of this sea a reef formed by calcium carbonate precipitating from the water and the skeletal remains of algae and sponges that settled to the bottom. As the ocean floor sank and the reef grew, a shallow lagoon formed behind the reef. The sediments that settled in the lagoon make up a formation know as the back reef. Sediments that broke off the front and tumbled to the bottom make up the fore reef. The sea eventually dried up; the water became too salty for the survival of the reef building organisms. Rivers washed sediments over the reef and buried it thousands of feet deep. Geologists surmise that around twelve million years ago an uplift took place. Wind and rain eroded away the sediments leaving the reef exposed and creating the mountain range of the Guadalupes. Through this range, McKittrick Canyon has cut a significant slash, exposing the backbone of the Capitan Reef, one of the most extensive fossil reef formations known on earth.
The lower elevation at the mouth of McKittrick Canyon, with dominating desert climatic conditions, allow for yuccas like the "Spanish bayonet" (Yucca faxoniana), sotol (Dasylirion leiophyllum) and Ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens) to thrive. To the untrained eye, it seems impossible for anything to grow in such harsh conditions, yet the plants have evolved to meet the challenge.
Several species of Prickly Pear cacti (Opuntia sp.) live in the canyon; their beautiful yellow-orange blossoms dot the landscape in late spring, and if your timing is right, you may enjoy the brilliant red glow of the claret cup blossoms (Echinocereus triglochidiatus). Cacti and other desert succulents avoid drying out by storing water in their succulent tissues. To protect their water from evaporation, the stems have a thick waxy coating. Their leaves, reduced to needles, provide protection from being consumed by animals while reflecting the radiant heat of the sun.
Further along the trail, trees stand as sentinels, silently guarding the canyon. Alligator juniper, velvet ash, ponderosa pine, and big tooth maple shelter agaves under their shady limbs. The most intriguing of these trees is the Texas madrone with its smooth red-orange bark and shiny green leaves. In spring, its urn-shaped, cream-colored flowers fill the air with a sweet fragrance. In fall its red berries provide food for American robins and Townsend Solitaires. This tree is a remnant of the past; a time of more rainfall and a less distinct desert climate. In the distance, the gurgling water of the perennial stream is its lifeline.
A profusion of beautiful wildflowers bloom from early spring through late fall in McKittrick Canyon. Many, such as Lion Heart (Physostegia praemorsa), Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), and Chapline Columbine (Aquilegia chaplinei) cling to the intermittent stream or the seeps within the canyon walls for their water. The irratic and unpredictable nature of precipitation is not enough to ensure their survival. The presence of these flowers reminds us of the fragility of intertwining ecosystems.
Sometimes we are deceived by the showy colors of a plant. For example, Indian paintbrush (Castilleja sp.) flowers are inconspicuous; it is the bright red bracts beneath each flower that catch the eye. Indian paintbrush is a hemiparasitic and depends on a host plant to supply its water and nutrients.
Among the more common wildflowers in McKittrick Canyon, look for Plains Blackfoot (Melampodium leucanthum), Apache plume (Fallugia paradoxa), and Butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa).
If we realize that only decades ago humans were personally responsible for the extinction of the Meriam elk and the extirpation of Desert bighorn sheep, Grizzly bears, Gray wolves, Bison and Blacktail prairie dogs, from the Guadalupes, we might be more inclined to carefully notice the animals, birds and insects, and their habitat that still remain today.
Mammal, bird, and reptile checklists are available from the Natural History Association bookstore located at the Headquarters Visitor Center. Mammals alone include 58 species, and more than 303 bird species have been identified in the park, 40 of which nest in McKittrick Canyon.
Many animals are hard to view due to their nocturnal activities. These include bobcats, mountain lions, raccoons, ring tail cats, and many species of bats. Look for their signs; scent, nests, tracks, scrape marks, and scat. During the daylight hours other species are out and about; be patient, sit still, and listen, and you may have the opportunity to observe mule deer, javelina, wood rats, vireos, towhees, fence lizards and yes, even rattlesnakes, the most frequently seen are Black-tailed and Rock rattlers. Look closely at a rock or the bark of a tree; many animals take full advantage of the camouflage nature has provided. As you watch the insects near the water, you may be surprised to know that some are found only here and nowhere else. Rainbow trout can be observed swimming in the stream. They were introduced into the canyon in the '30s, but have survived to provide stock for a small population.
The McKittrick Canyon Contact Station is open year round as staffing permits. Stop in and pick up a trail guide for your canyon walk or other literature about Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Outdoor exhibits and a slide presentation are also available.
McKittrick Canyon is designated as day-use only, with visitor hours from 8:00 am - 6:00 pm late April through October (Mountain Daylight Time), and 8:00 am - 4:30 pm November through April (Mountain Standard Time). Historic Pratt Lodge lies 2.3 miles into the canyon.
To experience the wonders of McKittrick Canyon, allow 3 - 5 hours to hike in the canyon bottom, or all day to reach the high ridges. The trailhead provides access to the Permian Reef Geology Trail, McKittrick Canyon Nature Trail, and the McKittrick Canyon Trail.
Pratt Lodge: Enjoy the shortest distance into the heart of the canyon by hiking to Pratt Lodge and return (a distance of 4.8 miles). Along this walk you will cross the stream twice before arriving at the historic structure. Enjoy a snack or lunch at the picnic tables near or at Pratt Lodge, or sit for a spell on the porch. Volunteers staff Pratt Lodge much of the year; take a look inside the stone cabin. Water and restrooms are available, except during the coldest months in winter.
The Grotto: Continue your hike beyond Pratt Lodge to the Grotto, and enjoy some of the prettiest sections of the canyon. The forest becomes denser, while the trail runs parallel to the stream. Rainbow trout are visible in the clear water. At the junction ahead (approximately 1 mile), take the side trip to the Grotto. There, the dripping water percolates through the limestone, methodically redistributing calcium carbonate into stalagmites and stalagmites in the tiny "cave." Rock benches and tables await you in the deep shade; a tempting location for a picnic. Follow the stone path from the Grotto to Hunter Cabin, the remains of a structure which was once part of a hunting retreat. Look up the canyon slope and see the steep switchbacks where the trail continues to McKittrick Ridge. Round trip distance to the Grotto is 6.8 miles.
McKittrick Ridge: Beyond the Grotto trail junction, the hike to McKittrick Ridge continues up one of the steepest trails in the park. If your endurance is up to it, and you have time, this hike is challenging and spectacular. In a mile or so the trail passes through "The Notch", where there is an interesting view of the canyon in different directions. As you continue, you will be fooled more than once by the false summits that make you think you've reached the top! The hike to the ridge and return is 14.8 miles (7.4 miles one way to McKittrick Ridge Campground).
For an exhilarating challenge, McKittrick Ridge Campground is available as a backcountry site. You must obtain a permit for this campground from the Headquarters Visitor Center, and allow plenty of time to carry the extra weight to the top, an elevation gain of 2700 feet!
McKittrick Canyon History
So unique is this spectacular canyon. While its towering walls protect the riches of diversity, its precious secrets are hidden in riparian oasis. It is no wonder that it has been described as the "most beautiful spot in Texas." But for all its magical power that delights thousands of people each year, its fragility reminds us that our enjoyment cannot compromise its necessity for survival. It must survive - not for us, but for all that lives within.
According to archeological evidence unearthed in and near the canyon, the earliest inhabitants occupied the area over 12,000 years ago. Only stone chipped tools, bone fragments and bits of charcoal remain to reconstruct the ways of their lives. More recent discoveries, such as mescal pits and pictographs, help weave a more complete story of prehistoric life in the Guadalupes.
Much later in history, around the early 1500s, the Mescalero Apaches inhabited the canyon. The Guadalupes provided the riches of game, water, and shelter, and remained their unchallenged sanctuary until the arrival of settlers, cattle drovers, and stage lines. As the land was taken from the Indians, conflicts arose. Skirmishes turned to bloody battles. Settlers demanded protection. The Mescalero were forced from the area as cavalry troops penetrated the Guadalupes, raiding and destroying Apache rancherias, rations and supplies. By the late 1800s, nearly all of the surviving Mescalero Apaches in the U.S. were on reservations.
Eventually the rugged land was tamed for ranching and farming. Grazing and hunting activities took their toll as fences went up. Wildlife, (Meriam elk, Desert bighorn sheep and Blacktail prairie dogs) disappeared from the Guadalupes. Though settlement occurred slowly in the Guadalupes, people were here to stay. McKittrick Canyon was named for Captain Felix McKittrick, a rancher who moved to the mouth of that canyon in 1869.
In 1921, a young geologist named Wallace E. Pratt came to McKittrick Canyon. He was captivated by its beauty and geology and began buying land in the canyon. In 1931 - 32, he had a cabin built at the confluence of North and South McKittrick. The magnificent structure, built only of stone and wood, was furnished with rough plank reclining chairs, four beds, an assortment of hammocks, and a special table to seat twelve. The cabin served as his part time home and summer retreat.
In 1957, Wallace Pratt donated 5,632 acres of his beloved property to the U.S. Government for the beginnings of a national park. His gift along with a 70,000 acre purchase from J.C. Hunter Jr.'s Guadalupe Mountain Ranch ensured that Guadalupe Mountains National Park was authorized by congress in 1966, and officially opened to the public in 1972. Wallace Pratt died on Christmas Day, 1981; he was 96 years old. As per his request, his ashes were spread over the canyon he loved. The Stone Cabin remains as a monument to this pioneer conservationist.
Frijole Ranch History Museum
Only a short distance from the Headquarters Visitor Center, an 1870s ranch house serves as a cultural history center, preserving artifacts of frontier life. (The museum is intermittently staffed.) Take a look at the old one room schoolhouse, and the spring house. A picnic table sits under the shade of the huge Chinkapin oaks; a great place to just sit and enjoy the moment.
The Frijole Ranch History Museum is wheelchair accessible. Its close proximity to several springs makes it an excellent location for birding. You may also begin your hike along the Smith Spring Loop trail at this location
The Pinery
The crumbled remains of the walls are all that is left of the 1858 Butterfield Overland Mail Stage Station. Easily reached by trail from the Headquarters Visitor Center or accessible from highway 62 / 180. A guide to the colorful history of the Pinery is available at the visitor center. The paved trail is accessible for wheelchairs.
Williams Ranch (Four-Wheel Drive Road)
A drive along this 4x4 road offers excellent views of the western side of the Guadalupes, a close look at the arid reaches of Chihuahuan desert landscape, and ends with the stark historic presence of a lonely and isolated ranch house, well preserved by the dry desert air.
To visit Williams Ranch, check in at the Headquarters Visitor Center to obtain a key and information brochures. Williams Ranch is designated as a day use area.
The Williams Ranch road is also accessible for mountain bike use.
Dog Canyon
Very few places left offer solitude and beauty like that of Dog Canyon. But its remote location means a long drive from any direction. Located in the north central part of the park, near the New Mexico state line, Dog Canyon has a Ranger Station, and offers picnicking, tent and RV camping, and stock corrals (by reservation) for horseback riding. Trails leading from Dog Canyon offer excellent hiking, backpacking, and bird watching opportunities. For more information about Dog Canyon, call: 505-981-2418.
Guadalupe Peak
The rewards of reaching the summit of 8,749 foot Guadulupe Peak, are spectacular views. Trail is 8.4 miles round trip. For a detailed list of other hiking possibilities, see the Hiking Page.
Wildflowers
Click here on the Wildflower Guide for more information on the flora and fauna of the park. The variety of wildflowers is endless.
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